The first night we stayed in a private pool villa outside Ubud, the power went out around nine. Instead of reaching for a phone, we lit the candles already left on the table and sat by the pool listening to the rice frogs start up one by one until the whole valley was humming. That's the case for a villa over a hotel room when you're newly married. A hotel gives you a view and a bed. A villa gives you a house that's yours — a plunge pool, a chef, a door that locks and stays locked.